Thursday - County Cork

We had a very full day today, spent mostly in Cobh, formerly known as Queenstown at the time of the sailing of Titanic 100 years ago.  After our two and a half hour drive from the cottage, we arrived in Cobh at around 10:00am . . . plenty of time to get a lay of the land and find parking.

Our only scheduled activity was an 11:00am with Titanic researcher and author Dr. Michael Martin.  He is the creator of the "Titanic Trail" tour and several others focusing on the history of this emigration port so prominent to so many Irish and Irish-American families.

We learned not only about Titanic but also about the role Queenstown played in the 19th and early 20th centuries.  We walked along the waterfront much the same as the 123 Titanic passengers who boarded here.  Dr. Martin explained that the buildings facing the harbor appear just as they did back in 1912.  It was a very surreal experience to walk in their footsteps today.

After our orientation with Dr. Martin, we went to the building that formerly housed the White Star Line ticket office.  The dock where tenders took passengers to the anchored Titanic out beyond the natural protective barrier island at the opening to the Irish Sea was immediately behind the ticket office.  It is here that the "Titanic Experience" occurs.  Here guests receive a ticket to Titanic as they assume the identity of one of the 123 Queenstown passengers.  Mom received one of the three first class passengers, ironically someone from Green Bay, Wisconsin.  Dr. Martin had mentioned this family, a doctor along with his wife and sister.  The two ladies were saved; the doctor perished.

We took the Titanic Experience tour and found it very interesting.  A blend of audio-visual storytelling and recreations of what the cabins were like on Titanic allowed visitors to get a feel for life on the ship.  At the end of the main "experience" aspects, the final area provided several photos and story-boards telling about the Titanic, Queenstown and her people.

Our final stop while in Cobh was the Cobh Heritage Center.  A modern day blend of history and shopping, we enjoyed the self-guided walk through tour that was largely about life in 18th and 19th century Ireland, especially as her residents faced famine and lack of financial opportunity which resulted in millions of people looking for a better life in North America.  Initially Canada was the destination of choice until laws in America became more favorable to emigrants.

From Cobh we backtracked a bit to Midleton, the original location of John Jameson & Son distillery.   The old distillery built in 1780 was closed in 1975 in favor of a new more modern facility.  As so many buildings in Ireland, the buildings fell into disrepair until such time as money was invested to restore them and create the Jameson Distillery Experience.

I have to say, David and I have done a lot of whiskey distillery tours and this one was probably the best, largely because it was in the original old buildings dating back more than 150 years.  The guided tour provides an overview to the distilling process as well as the history of Jameson Whiskey and the Old Distillery in Midleton.  At the end is a taste testing for eight lucky tour participants, who get to compare the Jameson product with that from Scotland (Black & White Scotch) and American (Jack Daniels).  All guests received a sample drink, either straight or mixed as a cocktail.  I thoroughly enjoyed mine with cranberry juice!  Their whiskey was very smooth and not nearly as harsh as others that I've sampled.

After the Midleton detour, we head on to our next overnight point, Tralee and the Ballyseede Castle.  We did stop for dinner before checking in.  More on Tralee and Ballyseede, next time!

                                                  A man and his dog in Cobh

Relaxing at Our Cottage

I cannot say enough for our first accommodations in Ireland.  Ballagh Court is comprised of five cottages, including three that were part of the original farm built in approximately 1800.  Richard & Salva (our hosts) purchased this farm from his family back in 1999 to avoid having the buildings raised.  He has since fully restored the old stone farm buildings into very nice self-catering units.  He has also built two separate stand-alone bungalow dormer-style houses.

We were in cottage #1, which was a spacious two bedroom, two bath accommodation that also featured a large country kitchen and a wonderful living room complete with wood burning stove.  Our evening fires became a highlight of our time when we returned home each night.

As a working farm, Richard's grandson collects and sells eggs from their hens.  We kept our breakfasts light with cereal and toast, so we did not partake in Callum's Free Range Eggs.

I booked this accommodation last fall through Imagine Ireland, a UK company that handles bookings throughout Ireland.  If you are looking for a nice place to stay at a very reasonable price, I encourage you to look them up.  Of course, you can also book directly with Richard at Ballagh Court if you would like.  I think the pricing is comparable whether you book with the hosts or through a booking agent such as Imagine Ireland.

I would be remiss if I didn't mention Maggie, their farm dog!  She was quite friendly, whenever we saw her. It was nice to see her when we came home each night.  While not a replacement for our Miss Heidi, I did enjoy having a dog around.

Self-catering for our first five nights in Ireland worked out very well.  With Ellie's late arrival over the weekend, David and I did dine out our first night.  After that, we bought groceries at what was about the same as a general store in the next town over from the cottage.  For roughly €60, we were able to buy food for dinner for four nights, along with the necessary items for breakfast (cereal, milk, bread, etc.)  David always travels with his own "home blend of coffee so we didn't have to pay the high prices that are commonplace throughout Ireland.

Today (Wednesday 25 April) was  rather miserable in terms of the weather.  It rained heavily throughout the night and much of the day.  When it was not raining hard, we did have on and off showers.  Add to that the cold damp wind, and we decided to stay with the plan of taking an easy day today, especially since tomorrow through Saturday will be rather active with quite a bit of driving.

Richard just left here about 20 minutes ago, wishing us well on our continued journey throughout Ireland.  I cannot say enough for how friendly he and Salva were during our stay.  He also provided us with a couple of suggestions for our time in County Galway where he knows several people including a pub or two where we can expect to find traditional Irish music and dance.

So tonight we'll be packing up our stuff and getting ready for an early (7:30a) departure for Cobh.  Back during the time of Titanic, Cobh was known as Queenstown which was the last port of call of the White Star Line's ill-fated luxury liner.  We have plans to take in a historical walking tour about Titanic and her people, as well as the Titanic Experience.

The plan is to check-in at the Ballyseede Castle in Tralee by dinner time.  I don't know when we'll next have internet service but will do what I can to blog at the next opportunity.

Another Wonderful Day of Exploration

On Tuesday (24 April) our initial plan was to head northwest to Rock of Cashel and then on to Cahir Castle and the Swiss Cottage.  Perhaps needless to say, we once again had a number of diversions . . . mostly good!

Shortly after we hit the road, we ventured by the medieval walled town of Fethard which today is largely in ruins.  Truth is, we could have probably spent the entire morning exploring the buildings of this Norman era village, built in the 13^th century and with fortification of the outer walls in later years.  We did spend some time snapping some photos and reading about the town’s history.  There is a great online article which tells the story of Fethard in greater detail.

Rock of Cashel was very impressive, as viewed from the other end of the city.  Unfortunately, this OPW historical site is undergoing a major renovation, which not only affected the photogenic features of this site, but it also limited access to the interiors of several buildings including the cathedral and the chapel.

The view from atop the hill was beautiful.  We were lucky to have decent weather providing for a view of great distances.  One could imagine why kings inhabited this location for several centuries before turning it over to the church.

The Rock of Cashel is also known as “Cashel of Kings” or “St. Patrick’s Rock”.  The round tower was built c 1100 and the chapel around 1130.  This was the site of a significant loss of life during the massacre by British Troops in 1647 during the Irish Confederate Wars.

It was especially interesting to walk around the grounds that contained several grave sites and memorials.  Unfortunately the older ones were not legible but many from the 19^th century were.  I was amazed to see a couple of recent grave markers dating the 21^st century.

Next on our tour was the Cahir Castle (pronounced like “care”) which was built in 1142.  This is another site with historical significance dating back to the Irish Confederate Wars.  Besieged in 1647 and 1650, the castle was surrendered without bloodshed to Cromwell’s Army.

Later the Butler family resumed occupancy of the castle and began an enlargement and remodeling effort that spanned three centuries (15^th to the 17^th).  The buildings fell into disrepair in the 18^th century with the Butler heirs partially restoring the buildings in 1840.

The last Lord Cahir died in 1961 at which time the property reverted to State ownership.

This castle or “manor home” as they were also frequently known, is one of the best preserved Irish estates from this era that is open to the public. It was interesting to see the various features built into the house and surrounding walls to provide protection from attack on all sides.

Further down the river that runs adjacent to Cahir Castle is the Swiss Cottage.  Built in 1810 by the Butlers, this “cottage ornee” was used largely to entertain guests.  The two story thatch roof house only contained four rooms and was never actually lived in.

The ground level had the tearoom and music room.  Unfortunately the house had been abandoned and left to the shenanigans of hoodlums, so much of the glass and rooms on this level were destroyed.  There was some of the original wall covering panels remaining in the tearoom, so archeologists were able to research and find replica printings to complete the restoration in the late 1980’s.  This piece of painted glass was saved by a local resident and returned when the restoration began.

While photos were not permitted inside the various rooms, I was able to snap this one from the outside through a window.  In the far right corner you can see a 19^th century harpsichord much like what I’ve seen in the restored areas of Colonial Williamsburg (Virginia).

The upstairs rooms were set up for resting and perhaps overnight stays; one for the Butlers and the other for their visiting guests.  Furnishings in all four rooms were either original pieces on loan from the Historical Society or period reproductions by local artisans.

 

This yew tree is estimated to be over 1,000 years old.  The poor quality of the photo is thanks to the heavy rains we experienced as we were leaving the grounds.

Earlier in the day, during our drive to Cashel, we went by Waterford City.  Since the Waterford Crystal Factory was on our list of places to visit, but scheduled for the following day, I thought it might be just as convenient to go ahead and make this short detour.  Not being prepared with my paperwork and maps, we were dependent on the Garmin for routing which resulted in getting lost in this very busy city.  We stopped at a local mall in order to try to get our bearings and hopefully some instructions to the Waterford Crystal visitor center.

While I dealt with the Garmin and the big OSI Ireland Atlas, David and his mom went into the mall to see if they could find a sweater or something for her.  She had been cold since arriving in Ireland and our previous attempts at finding something for her came up empty-handed.

They came back with a beautiful €28 sweater that was on close-out for just €8.  After an hour of not really even knowing what we were looking for (we passed the Waterford Crystal visitor center TWICE!) we gave up.  The mantra for the rest of the day regarding Waterford City would be “but we found a sweater”.

While in Waterford City we did drive by Reginald's Tower, which was built on the riverfront for defenses against attacks in the 13^th century.  It later served as the mint, prison and military store.  Today it has been fully restored and houses exhibitions open to the public.  If we get back to Waterford today (Wednesday 25 April) I’m hoping we’ll make a stop here too.

Here are couple of other photos I snapped as we drove through the Irish countryside.  Not sure where we were or what, if any historical significance either has . . . but they were very interesting so I took the photo!

A Bit More About Monday's Sites

My apologies for such a scant report on the two historical sites we visited yesterday.  I really didn't have enough time to research some facts, and I wanted to get a few photos posted.  So . . . about Jerpoint Abbey and Kilkenny Castle . . .

Jerpoint Abbey was built in the late 12th century.  It is a Cistercian abbey, most notably known for the beautiful limestone carvings, most created between the 12th and 16th centuries.  This abbey flourished until King Henry VIII dissolved the monasteries.  The last abbot surrendered to the king.

Kilkenny Castle was built in 1195 and is considered to be a symbol of Norman occupation in Ireland.  It was strategically placed so as to protect the town from invasion.  The Butler Dynasty lived in the house and did several additions and renovations from 1391 to 1935.  The last Butler family heir sold the castle and surrounding land to the Castle Restoration Committee who set about a full restoration, which is still in progress today. (Much of the large manor house was not available for tour.)  The price . . . £50.

As with many of the historical sites throughout Ireland that are operated by the OPW (Office of Public Works), there are admission fees charged.  The OPW Heritage Pass is just €21 per person (€16 for seniors), and well worth the purchase.  In just three days we've visited six OPW Heritage sites which would have cost €24 per person.  So clearly, the pass is a good investment for anyone planning extensive touring of some of Ireland's most notable historical sites.

For those of you looking for more info on these and upcoming OPW Heritage sites, you can check out the OPW website or do a GOOGLE search.  Wikipedia has some detailed info on many of the sites we've visited or plan to visit during our two weeks here.

Monday 23 April

Today was our first real day of touring, and it was really great.  We started out with a plan to try to get to three historical sites within about an  hour of our cottage.  What we realized was just as people had forewarned, regardless of "your plan" you will not get to it all as planned.  Part of that was due to my wanting to stop along the way at several unscheduled sites and views.  It was really quite spectacular.

Shortly after leaving the cottage, we stumbled upon a Roman Catholic Church built in 1700.  It was very small, tucked in a little valley in a pretty sharp curve in the road (R700).  There was a convenient parking lot just beyond and above the church, so David was able to pull over at my cry of "STOP".

We were able to walk around the grounds along side a running brook, complete with waterfalls.  There was a bell tower adjacent to the church complete with an old copper bell and rope. Inside, the church was beautifully maintained.  I even found the service hymn flier from yesterday's mass.

Upon return to our cottage, I was able to research the church.  I learned that it is the second oldest active church in all of Ireland.  It survived the attacks by British soldiers due to its hidden location.  In fact, there is a small cave in the area where the priests once hid to avoid Cornwall's men.

From there we continued on our way, next stopping in the village of Inistioge, where the River Nore creates a lovely backdrop for yet another photo op stop!  We enjoyed pulling into the parking lot along the riverside park where several folks had their dogs out romping.





Our next unplanned stop was marked as a "view" so we pulled into the off road area, not sure what we might view.  Out in the pasture probably 300 yards or so were the remains of the Grennan Castle (c 1210).  It seemed so out of place and yet so perfect sitting out in the green field not too far from the river.  

We arrived at our first planned destination of Jerpoint Abbey near Thomastown shortly before noon, and spent a leisurely hour walking the grounds of this 13th century ruin that is currently undergoing restoration.   The ornate carvings in limestone were beautiful.  I especially enjoyed one of the outer walls which still have several of the original pillars intact.

 

From Thomastown we headed on to the medieval Irish capital of Kilkenny.  As much as we wanted to spend more time here, it was a very busy city with a lot of vehicle and pedestrian traffic.  We opted to visit the Kilkenny Castle as planned and then head on back to the cottage.  The Kilkenny Castle is in the middle of a continued renovation effort dating back to the 1960's.  Much of the interior was off limits to visitors, with photography prohibited throughout the interior.

We decided to head back to the cottage through New Ross so that we could shop for a couple of small items at the local Tesco; think Super Walmart or Target, but on a much smaller scale.  They sold everything from fresh produce and meats to kitchen utensils and cooking implements.  I got caught up in trying to decide what type of potatoes to buy for dinner.  I think I counted around eight different varieties of potatoes, excluding sweet potatoes (and their variations).

The above photo of the river was one of my "drive-by" photographs taken as we crossed this old stone bridge near New Ross.  This Celtic cross was right in the middle of the town of New Ross.

We arrived home just before 5:00pm, so it was a very full day.  David's doing well with the driving so all is good in that regard.

I'm not sure what we'll plan for tomorrow, as each day is an adventure depending on how far with think we want to ramble.  The internet connection here is a bit unreliable but I'm hoping to be able to post again tomorrow night!

Our First Full Day in Ireland

Now that we are all here in Ireland, I have some time to write about our first 30 hours or so.  For David and me, the flight was uneventful although sleep was not an option for David.  Typically I'm able to sleep for the better part of the overnight flight, but I wasn't able to get more than perhaps an hour at a time.  David got no sleep so he was beat when we did arrive at 8am on Saturday.

As for American Airlines, this was my first trip of any distance with them.  We flew from Milwaukee to Chicago's O'Hare Airport and then directly into Dublin.  They served a free dinner which wasn't too bad, which also came with complimentary wine.  David enjoy both of our bottles. The dinner options were chicken with rice or a pasta dish, along with salad, cheese & crackers and a brownie for dessert. 

About 90 minutes before arrival, they also served a continental breakfast which consisted of a croissant, strawberry yogurt and OJ.

As we flew over Ireland, there were too many clouds to really see much.  Once we were near Dublin, however, we could see the ground.  I took this photo of an island out in the Irish Sea to the east of the city.

Unfortunately, my mother-in-law (Ellie) was unable to make the connection in Chicago due to mechanical issues with the plane so we had to return Sunday at 8am to pick her up.  With a 2.5 hour drive, we were up before the chickens (literally).

Thanks to the recommendations for some folks on the Trip Advisor Ireland Forum, I was aware of a nice cafe at the Avoca in County Wexford.  This was just about a perfect location as we had plans to stop nearby at the Glendalough Heritage Site.  David was too tired to really get out and about so I enjoyed the 17 minute film in the visitor center, explaining the historical significance of this 6th century monastic city of St Kevin.

After the short hour visit at Glendalough, we made our way to our cottage via mainly narrow two lane roads.  The two hour drive was nerve wracking for both David (who had to deal with driving on the opposite side of the road) and me (who had to keep from white knuckling as he navigated at the direction of our Garmin).

Speaking of the Garmin, we did get the Ireland maps for it, but for some reason, she had a mind of her own relative to how we should plan our route from the airport to Glendalough and on to the cottage.  It took us right through Dublin City, which was not the plan especially given that David wanted to ease into his driving duties!

Once at the cottage we met our host Richard, who is a very interesting man.  He and he wife run the farm where these cottages are, making it very convenient to us should we have any questions or needs.  We received an outstanding dinner recommendation from him at a local pub in a neighboring village.

David was in bed and fast asleep by 7:30p and I was about an hour behind him.  With the alarm clock set for 5:30am, I felt surely we'd both be awake and ready to tackle the new day by 4am.  Nope . . .  we both slept through the night until the alarm went off.  With quick showers, we were out of the house by 6:10a catching a rather cloudy but beautiful sunrise.

Everything went perfectly in getting Ellie at the airport in Dublin.  We went back to Avoca and enjoyed another nice breakfast.  We also picked up a couple of scones for later in the day..  Before returning to our cottage we shopped for groceries for the next few days.  With that chore completed, we returned to the cottage to relax after a couple of hectic travel days.

More photos from our first couple of days

Wool blankets at Avoca

                                       Pub at the Horse & Hounds where David had his first Guinness

Cyclists enjoying a ride near Glendalough and Wicklow Mountains National Park (County Wicklow)

                                          Heading out from our farmhouse cottage for dinner

The Adventure Begins!

We will be leaving for the airport shortly, connecting with my mother-in-law at Chicago's O'Hare Airport around 5:00pm.  From there, we fly directly into Dublin scheduled to arrive tomorrow at 8:00am.

Once we pick up our rental car it will be off to Glendalough and Wicklow National Park.  I expect we'll stop along the way for breakfast or perhaps lunch.  It will be a leisurely day as we work our way down to County Wexford where we are booked for the next several nights in a farmhouse cottage.

Look for updates (and PHOTOS) soon!